TRAVEL DIARY: Jundo Goes To China

[fanndrew]

Jundo,

Congratulations on your daughter again! On the subject of the mummified remains of Hui Neng, there were three former abbots mummified at Jiuhuashan, but the guide we were with couldn't explain the significance of the process.

Gassho,

Andrew

[Nindo]

Are we making a mistake in the West of stepping away from that devotional aspect of Asian Buddhism?
... Gassho, J

Maybe all those buddha statues and zen pictures available at North American garden centres and homewares shops mean that the devotional aspect is alive and well in the West?

[Jundo]

TRAVEL DAIRY III:

Hi Everyone,

Just back in Guangzhou from the '6th Ancestors Temple', Nanhua-si, about 3 hours by bumpy long distance bus from here. I just woke up at 4am, probably because of the early morning schedule at the temple the last couple of days, so good time to write this before heading back to bed.

First, let me thank Andy Ferguson for having arranged my time there with just a phone call to the temple director, Rev. Fa Qi. Andy, as some of you may know, runs a very unusual tour each year taking mostly Western Zen students around China to various famous Chan (the Chinese origin of 'Zen') temples such as Nanhua-si. The great translator of so many Zen texts, Red Pine (Bill Porter), sometimes accompanies Andy on these tours, and Andy is quite expert in the language and Buddhist culture of China himself (he is the author of the following book, which sets out many of the traditional legends and Koan stories of Zen http://www.amazon.com/Zens-Chinese-Heri ... 032&sr=8-1 ). If you have the money ('cause it isn't cheap to fly and wander around China for a few weeks), please have a look at his tour. I have heard good things from those who have participated in the past, and Andy promised to send information to us when he gets the 2012 tour set.

http://www.southmountaintours.com/

I was very fortunate that I dropped in right during the last week of Nanhua-si's formal winter retreat, and all formalities were in evidence in the Zendo where we sat many times a day. A film crew from the temple's audio-visual department (yes, the 6th Ancestor also has gone online) came in to one of the sittings to film, so there is a good chance I will have a video to show you of this in the next week or two. I was very fortunate that about 150 people were sitting together in their Zendo for visitors, where I was sitting, including many novice priests from the temple's attached school (mostly teenage boys), some visiting nuns and priests, and many Chinese lay folks. I think I was the only foreigner. Yes, women sit and "Kinhin" apart from the men.

I think most folks know that Buddhism travelled from India to China before moving on to places like Japan and Korea and now the rest of the world. "Chan" is what resulted when Buddhism came to China ... developed in its own ways due to Chinese religious sensibilities and culture ... before moving on to Japan and becoming very Japanese (same for Korea, Vietnam etc., and now our cultures). What was amazing to me during my two days in their Zen Hall was, not the many small and larger differences in style, but how much had remained unchanged since the "split" into Chinese and Japanese branches many hundreds of years ago (and with limited interaction since). What they do in their Zendo is pretty much just what is done in a Japanese Zendo ... although with some interesting differences (different, but the same ... same yet different).

Some of the differences would only be interesting to a real "Zendo geek" ... such as small differences in Zendo procedures (e.g, they begin Zazen with strikes on the wooden han which hangs under the bell, not just with 3 rings of the bell like we do, and they do prostrations directly on the cold tile floor with no mat or Zagu! :shock: ). I won't bore folks with those.

The most unique part was perhaps their version of Kinhin, which consists of fast walking or running around and around the central altar, lines of men in concentric circles moving at high speed (men only ... the women walk/run around the periphery of the room), surrounded on the outside by a ring of monks with sword-shaped wooded "Keisaku" sticks ready to (gently) prod anyone who drifts sideways or begins to fall behind. In Japan too, Rinzai-style "kinhin" can be more of a fast walk or run, but I do not think anything like this. The experience is a bit like trying to walk Kinhin on a moving merry-go-round, and at the same time like trying to drive down an American highway and keep one's lane with traffic passing on all sides and a giant truck on one's bumper, while a bunch of guys with cattle prods make sure you stay in place! :shock: One get's dizzy, combined with a bit light headed with the shouting that happens at various moments. Suddenly, there is a crashing of the Keisaku sticks on the floor, and everyone freezes! There then follows a long ... long ... talk delivered by the Master (while everyone remains standing!) :|

The other big difference from Japan is that there was much less rigidity in the sitting styles. Don't misunderstand me, because there was as much formality in the Chinese hall as in Japan, but there was much more variation in the ways people sat ... with a great many different ways to hold the hands, and place the back. Some people were almost head down leaning on their knees. There was also greater freedom to change position mid-sitting, and some sitters would switch between postures from time to time. I think Taigu would approve. (It is a something of a Japanese cultural trait to be so focused on "the" proper physical form, something I have written about here):

viewtopic.php?p=49416#p49416

Here is a photo of some Chinese monks from Shaolin that may give you a feeling about what I mean ... and also that sword-shaped Keisaku stick!



Also, as you can see, the Chinese monks do grow their hair quite long compared to most (not all) Japanese priests ... including beards and such ... which I appreciated.

Also, it seems that the ways of meditation also had great variety. My sense was that, in some way, the great majority of people were meditating by focusing on a chant to Amida Buddha. Some may have been introspecting a Koan, and some engaging in some "Silent Illumination" close to Shikantaza. I cannot be sure, as my survey was very limited. As I mentioned last time, in China (and Vietnam), "Pure Land" Buddhism based upon faith and devotion to Amida Buddha has pretty much merged with Chan. This is true for both the Chinese Caodong (Soto) and Linchi (Rinzai) lines, which also have become almost indistinguishable. I have heard (in reading the great expert on Chinese Buddhism, Holmes Welch) that the only obvious difference now is that the Caodong teachers hang the wooden Han in the Zendo sideways! Otherwise, there is no way to tell one from the other in how things are conducted.

By the way, Anista ... if you would like to read one of the best descriptions of the early "love-hate" relationship (beyond love/hate, of course!) between Pure Land and Chan in China about 1000 years ago, and the philosophical "common ground" that was eventually found to allow their merging in this way ... it is the following. Unfortunately, I do not think all pages are available online, but it is worth finding if you are interested in the topic.

From Dispute to Dual Cultivation: Pure Land Responses to Ch'an Critics by David W. Chappell
http://books.google.com.hk/books?id=GwP ... &q&f=false

One more aspect to mention is that, while vegetarian meals were served in the Zendo ranging from Chinese "churro-like" donuts and porridge in the morning to steamed buns at night ... NO ORYOKI! No chanting before or after eating, let alone the formality of set gestures. One just scoffed down one's donut! This, again, may be a development of the Japanese emphasis on "Kata" and proper, set physical forms I linked to above. (No coffee, unfortunately, to go with the donuts ... but lots and lots of hot Chinese tea available during the short bathroom breaks).

As you can see in the photo above, Kesa do not seem to be worn in the Zendo when sitting ... only during chanting ceremonies in other halls. Instead, long robes are worn (I purchased a couple to bring back with me). Chinese monks at Nanhua-si seem to favor bright red Kesa too.

What else? Hmmm. Small stuff. It is simply amazing how much things have NOT changed even more in two traditions developing independently and in near isolation for centuries, with little interchange between them except now and then.

As to Nanhua-si itself, there is a huge construction going on funded by tremendous donations from newly rich ... and religious ... mainland and Hong Kong Chinese. They literally have a plan to build a huge park with dozens of buildings resembling the "Pure Land". Here is just some of what exists now, and it extends far beyond the photo for 150 acres ...



Oh, and Ven. Hui-Neng, the 6th Patriarch, continues his vigil of Zazen through the centuries. He is, of course, the central point of veneration of the temple ...



and the local community of Shaoguan too, which is hoping that he will be a big attraction for tourists. However, I did think the advertised "6th Ancestor ATM Card" was a bit much perhaps ...



I would have stayed a few days more, but Mina and Leon are flyng over tonight so needed to get back. Today, time for a quick visit to Master Bodhidharma's temple, back here in Guangzhou.

Gassho, J

[Hoyu]

Wow! Thank you for all the wonderful information Jundo Sensei.
Good to hear that Mina and Leon will soon arrive and you can proceed with the adoption process and bring Sada home

Gassho,
John

[Kaishin]

Cool stuff!

Sent from my SGH-i917 using Board Express

[Kyonin]

To see all those rituals and differences in cultures and practices must be a great learning experience.

Thanks for sharing, Jundo.

And it's great to know you'll be meeting your family soon. Hope everything goes smoothly!

[Jundo]

TRAVEL DAIRY IV:

Hey guys,

The big event today will be Mina and Leon's arrival this evening. Awaiting that, the day started with a short visit to a Zen temple said founded by Bodhidharma himself or his students upon his arrival in Guangzhou.

Hualin Temple was known as Xilai Temple until 1655, the place of worship commemorates the arrival of Bodhidharma (who was later to found Zen Buddhism in China) to Guangzhou from India around 525 AD. Legend has it that the temple was built soon a after the arrival of Dharma, hence the original name Xilai (literally "visitor from the west") Temple. After Bodhidharma headed north the temple was founded by followers in 527 AD. The Bodhidharma Hall in Hualin Temple stands as tribute to the great monk. However, the most impressive structure in the temple complex is the 500 Arhat Hall. Constructed in 1851, this hall houses 500 gold-painted carvings of arhats (those who have reached Nirvana), each with a unique pose and expression.

The Old Boy is featured as a massive Golden Buddha himself, and I wonder how he would feel about that!



The temple has an amazing collection of 500 Arhats, or Buddhist saints, each with his own eccentricities and personality. I always enjoy the 500 arhats because they are so human, and represent all the diversity of human personalities. These statues are recreations of the originals, which were destroyed by Mao's Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution (like so many temples in China which were destroyed or damaged during that period in the 1960's).




Here is a little information on the 500 Arhats (or Rakkan in Japanese) ...

The Japanese term "Rakan" is an abbreviation of the Japanese term "Arakan (é?¿ç¾?æ¼¢)," itself a translation of the Sanskrit term "Arhan." Also called "Ougu (æ??ä¾?)." The highest diciples of Shaka é??迦. In Theravada Buddhism, rakan are revered as having completed their training and ranked as mugaku ç?¡å*¦, "nothing else to learn," which indicates that they achieved the highest point that a disciple of Shaka could reach. However, in Mahayana Buddhism, rakan who aim at their own salvation are ranked below the Boddhisattva (Bosatsu è�©è?©). It is said that when Shaka entered nirvana (æ¶?æ§?), rakan were ordered to live in this world and protect the True Law (shouhou æ*£æ³?). Therefore, rakan are depicted in the guise of priests, with buddhist monks' robes (kesa è¢?è£?) and bald heads (teihatsu å??髪). ... Since the 9th century, numerous paintings and sculptures of rakan were produced in both China and Japan. Typically, they are depicted in a group of 16 or 18 (juuhachi rakan å��å?«ç¾?æ¼¢), and this may be expanded to 500

Five hundred arhats (rakan ç¾?æ¼¢), a Buddhist art subject developed in China featuring large numbers of Indian wise men usually accompanied by servants. There is no agreement among scholars as to the origin of this grouping ... , although several Chinese texts mention rakan as protective saints, who guard the Buddhist law until the coming of Miroku (å¼¥å?', Skt: Maitreya), the Buddha of the Future. The Chinese belief that the Five Hundred Luohan inhabited a peak beyond the Stone Bridge (Shakkyou ç?³æ©?) on Mt. Tiantai (Jp: Tendaisan 天å�°å±±) is probably an adaptation into popular Buddhism of Taoist legends about the locale as the home of immortals. Tang-period Chinese were also familiar with Indian legends of five hundred arhats believed to live on Mt. Buddhavanagiri near Rajagrha. It is not clear whether the number "500" refers to 500 specific individuals or simply indicates a large number. Beginning in the 5c large groups of rakan were depicted as seated, a pose that was also used for portrayal of independant rakan images.
http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/r ... ohan.shtml

Then, continuing the theme of the human personality, I spent the afternoon at a wonderful exhibition here on the structure and workings of the human brain. The exhibition has been travelling around the world, so be sure to catch it if it comes your way. As we talked about during the Rohatsu Retreat on the Heart Sutra, I do believe that traditional Buddhist beliefs on the origin of "self", thoughts and emotions were 1000 years ahead of their time, and science is now catching up!

http://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/brain/about.php

Now ... off to the airport ...

Gassho, J

[Jundo]

By the way ... I am having some trouble to access Treeleaf here in China sometimes. Maybe the government knows how much we are trouble makers and has banned us?

In any event, as my wife and I head to another city tomorrow, there is a change I might lose the ability to connect here for a few days.

Gassho, J

[ghop]

By the way ... I am having some trouble to access Treeleaf here in China sometimes. Maybe the government knows how much we are trouble makers and has banned us?

:lol: :lol: :lol: Indeed.

Thanks for sharing your journey, and the pics. Interesting stuff! Just think, because of Treeleaf, somebody in Alabama is sharing your excitement for your new addition to the family. This is a special moment. Be safe and enjoy the journey.

gassho
Greg

[Jundo]

Just a note that Mina and Leon arrived safely. Today we are flying to Nanning in neighboring Guanxi to meet the baby tomorrow.

First ... some Dim Sum for lunch!

Gassho, J

[Dosho]

Just a note that Mina and Leon arrived safely. Today we are flying to Nanning in neighboring Guanxi to meet the baby tomorrow.

Great news and I'm sure you are glad to see them. Tomorrow will be quite a day, so pace yourselves!

I can't express how happy I am for you and the family...best wishes!

Gassho,
Dosho

[Heisoku]

Thank you Jundo for sharing your experiences and the fantastic amount of information on Chinese Buddhism.

Best wishes to you and the family for the finalisation of the adoption.
Gassho.

[Taigu]

Best wishes, find this baby and then...


gassho

T.

[Jundo]

TRAVEL DAIRY IV:

Hi All,

Well, we made it to Nanning, Guangxi ... (map here)

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=nan ... CCgQ8gEwAA

... and got the news that, contrary to what we had been told and thought, we do not get the baby for "keepsters" next Wednesday ...

... but TOMORROW MORNING! About 12 hours from now! :shock: They bring our daughter to us about 11:30 am, and after some formalities, just leave her!

So, just sitting with that.

Thus, tonight, we made a mad rush over to the Chinese Wal-mart across from our hotel for last minute baby supplies and ... we are ready to go!

Oh, by the way, yes, they have "Wal-mart" in China too.

And it is just like the Wal-mart in America ... cause EVERYTHING IS MADE IN CHINA! 8) Maybe their secret plan is to have everyone in China both working and shopping at them too?

Actually, it seems there are a few items that only are sold at Chinese Wal-mart. Like crocodiles and assorted dried reptiles (if you believe this webpage. I did not see that in our short stop this time, but I will sure ask when we go back!) ...



http://www.buzzfeed.com/mjs538/16-produ ... e-walmarts

Gassho, J

[Dojin]

Poor Crocs....

[Amelia]

Very exciting time for you and your family, Jundo, I am sure! :mrgreen: I can't wait to hear the details on your new daughter, or perhaps see a picture in the coming months.

As a few have commented, thanks for passing on all the interesting stuff you're learning.

Gassho,

Amelia

[Ekai]

You must have had so much fun shopping for the baby items knowing that she is coming soon! How wonderful.

Thanks for sharing the pictures and travel journey. Very interesting.

Thanks,
Jodi

[rculver]

Almost there.... :-)

Babies make me happy!

Thanks for letting us join in your families joy!

Ron

[Hoyu]

Great turn of events
Sooner is definitely better!

Gassho,
John
P.S. I found crocodile to be surprisingly tasteful.

[Yugen]

Jundo,
What a great turn of events! Fingers are crossed for the next twenty-four hours! I am sure you are rushing about (and not-rushing - finding stillness in your preparations) picking up the necessary items....

Be well, and Gassho,
Yugen

[Jundo]

TRAVEL DAIRY V:

Hey guys,

Details and photos later, cause right now up to our elbows in sleepy baby ...

... but I think we have a winner here! A real sweetie!

Gassho, J and Mina

[Myozan Kodo]

Jundo and family,
Congratulations! Fantastic news. A time of great joy.
Gassho
Soen

[Hans]

Baruch Hashem!


Excellent news. I'm happy for you all.


All the best from Germany and gassho,

Hans Chudo Mongen

[Myoku]

Gassho Jundo,
wonderful news
Peter

[Nindo]

TRAVEL DAIRY V:
... but I think we have a winner here! A real sweetie!

Aaah, that just saved my Monday morning... can't wait for the photos!
Take care!

[Shokai]

Jundo;

Thanks for the updates and congratulations on the new addition. I did not realize you were going that far south in China. And, the Inside Story site looks great; it should last me for quite some time. Can't wait to see pics of the baby girl. Best regards to you, Mina and Leon on you enjoyable new adventure.

Richard

[Ekai]

TRAVEL DAIRY V:

Hey guys,

Details and photos later, cause right now up to our elbows in sleepy baby ...

... but I think we have a winner here! A real sweetie!

Gassho, J and Mina

Oh how precious. Sleeping babies are truly beautiful.

Thanks,
Jodi

[Dosho]

TRAVEL DAIRY V:

Hey guys,

Details and photos later, cause right now up to our elbows in sleepy baby ...

... but I think we have a winner here! A real sweetie!

Gassho, J and Mina

[Hoyu]

Awesome news Jundo! Can't wait for the pictures!

On a side note:
Just a quick question on the statues of Arhats. I notice that they all seem to have stretched earlobes. I know this was a practice done in India(hence Gautama's ears) but didn't think the Chinese ever adopted it. Just wondering because many of them appear to not to have very Indian looking features.

Gassho,
John

[Kyonin]

WOOHOO!!!

I'm doing a happy dance for you guys. Congratulations to Mina and Leon!

Please, please, please post a picture as soon as you can!

Happy happy news!

[Undo]

Wonderful news Jundo. Brilliant!!!!!!!
What a time for you all.
amazing what happens moment by moment.
I hope you get some sleep and lots of hugs.

Gassho

undo

[louis]

Hugs to all, how wonderful. Now about those baby pictures....

[Hogen]

excellent news!!!

[bobz01]

Great news Jundo!!!, best way to start a new year too!!. All the best from us in Pittsburgh.

[rculver]

:-) yay!!!!

[Amelia]

Congratulations Jundo, Mina and Leon! I can only imagine how happy you all must be!

Much love from me,

Amelia

[BrianW]

Wow Jundo! This has been a long wait and many set backs for you...so happy for you, Mina, and Leon!

Gassho,
Jisen/BrianW

[Taigu]

Wonderful news!!!

This is it, now your dream has come true.

All my love to all of you!

gassho

Taigu

[Daido]

Congratulations

[Nenka]

Congratulations!

[Dokan]

Wonderful news! Congratulations papa!

G

S

Sent from my SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

[Gary]

Awesome!! Babies are brilliant!!

[Rimon]

Indeed! Great news Jundo!! Congratulations from my family and myself

Biiiiiiiiiiiiig gaaasho!

Rimon

[andyZ]

Congratulations Jundo!

[Daizan]

Congratulations Jundo. Health and Happiness.

[Jundo]

TRAVEL DAIRY VI:

Hey Guys,

Mina and I thank you all for the many kinds words. Here is a our son, Leon, and his new sister Sada (or 'Qiao Qiao' ... pronounced like 'ciao ciao' in Italian ... her Chinese nickname which we have taken to calling her) ...

The whole family is doing fine, and Qiao Qiao is a patient little one so far, dragging her to various appointments. Age now 1 year and 4 months ... All we need is twenty more years like today and yesterday, and mom and dad will be very content!



Today involved various visits to Chinese legal bureaus to make the adoption official. It now is. However, we will need to stay in Nanning until Saturday awaiting the final paperwork, then on to Guangzhou for more procedures and paperwork with the U.S. and Japanese consulates. Nanning is an interesting town. The food is great ...



The air, though, is a little thick with smoke from thousands of cars and motorbikes like one finds in Southeast Asia, and it also makes crossing the street an adventure ...



By the way, I was able to confirm the story that Wal-mart here has sold crocodiles in the meat section! In fact, crocodile is served in many of the restaurants here including our hotel. But, ya know, as an old Florida boy ... I have had my share of gator steaks and tail there, so not so surprised.

Oh, and on John's question ...

Just a quick question on the statues of Arhats. I notice that they all seem to have stretched earlobes. I know this was a practice done in India(hence Gautama's ears) but didn't think the Chinese ever adopted it. Just wondering because many of them appear to not to have very Indian looking features.

Yes, earlobes long like lotus petals ... perhaps a symbol of a great ability to listen ... are one of the traditional 'Marks of a Buddha' ... although this page ties it to the Buddha's former life as a prince and piercing ...

I don't think that it is about how one dressed as a Buddhist, but rather physical characteristics said to naturally arise the closer one came to being Buddha-like.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i ... he-buddha/

Hey, Qiao Qiao has pretty long earlobes and fingers, now that ya mention it!

Gassho, J

[Dosho]

Jundo,

I don't see an emoticon for a happy cry, so I'll do a combo: :cry:

So, very, very, happy for you, Mina, and Leon.

Thank you for sharing Sada with us!

Gassho,
Dosho

[Hoyu]

Wahoo! We finally get to see a picture of beautiful Sada! Congratulations proud papa we are all sooooo happy for you, Mina, and Leon

Deep Gassho,
John

[Kaishin]

Wonderful!!! She is absolutely adorable. That's so great that Leon gets to be a big brother! Glad everything is going well and everyone is healthy.

Good luck with the continued red tape

[Yugen]

Sada is beautiful! Much love to all of you!! Absolutely brilliant!

Gassho,
Yugen