Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by ros
In most rakusu's I have seen , the back panel is in white fabric and ofter has kanji and the person's dharma name and jukai date. I don't know if Jundo will be doing this.
Hi Rowan,
Wonderful posting. I am forwarding it to Rev. Taigu for his input, as I want to make sure we are all "on the same page" or ... "same Rakusu" :D
In fact, I am going to see if I can get him to sign onto the Forum directly, so I do not need to forward messages back and forth.
As to your comment above ...
This is one of the logistical questions we face due to the limits of time and space. Two ways I can think to do this:
First, have everyone mail me their Rakusu in Japan, either before or after the ceremony, let me write on then then mail them back. That seems both convoluted, extra expensive and a bit risky (given the international mails).
Second, I write just the back panels here by themselves, then mail them to the various participants to sew in. That seems the best way to me, but I have heard from some Rakusu sewers that it might be tricky to sew it in after the writing is on it (not sure why). What do you think, Row?
Gassho, Jundo
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
If anyone does not know what we are talking about, it is the white panel on the back of the Rakusu that requires some calligraphy by me ...
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/21/34...236992.jpg?v=0
For example ...
http://kalipani.com/picts/jikairakusu.jpg
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Hi Jundo!
- It would be very simple to sew on your back panel, if people just completed the rakusu, back panel and all, and then just sewed the special Jundo back panel over their blank back panel (so that the original back panel became a sort of "interlining" which is a very common occurrence in fabric construction). One would just fold under and iron the edges of the "Jundo" panel so it is the right size to fit on the back panel of the rakusu, pin it in many places (not just the edges) to make sure it is flat and do either a "hem stitch" or small running stitch to attach. I think the "difficulty" might be if they were trying to make the added back panel be the only back panel. But adding one later "on top" is a piece of mochi :D
One thing to test when you are doing the rakusus backs, make sure the writing won't run at all when steam ironed? even better if you can run it through a wash to see if it will run. Better yet, I will see if I can get some "permanent" art ink and see how "permanent" it is. Would you be doing it using brushwork? I know Sharpie brand permanent markers are VERY permanent and will not wash out or run (in my experience) but I am not sure if you can get bottle ink that is really permanent (if you want to do brushwork). But of course, you are in Japan so if there is anything, it should be available there :D (oh dear, I might have to shop for art supplies, please no, anything but that. this is way more suffering than you r ice cream cone!)
gassho,
rowan
"Second, I write just the back panels here by themselves, then mail them to the various participants to sew in. That seems the best way to me, but I have heard from some Rakusu sewers that it might be tricky to sew it in after the writing is on it (not sure why). What do you think, Row?"
Gassho, Jundo[/quote]
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Hi again (yeas it is me again),
I wanted to note that these are just general hand sewing notes, there may be special stitches or ways of putting things together (and especially about ironing during the sewing process) that are particular to sewing the rakusu.
I neglected to mention "top-stitching" which is where, after you have done a seam, ironed it flat, you then stitch on "top" (actually through all layers) so that this line of stitching shows on the outside. This is done as a decorative effect and to really hold the piecing and seam allowances in place. the Kwan Um "small kesa" has a lot of this but I can't remember if a Japanese style rakusu has it. I guess we will wall find out together then the pattern in available. If one is doing top-stitching, this is where one might want to put little dots in a line to act as a guide to making uniform stitches. Also, when top stitching, you will probably need to (this is stupid to explain) make a stitch down into the fabric, pull it through to the underside, then "blindly" make a stitch up from the underside to the top (with a few trials to get the needle to come up in the right place). Please test to make sure that your dots will wipe off with a damp washcloth after your have finished top-stitching (you need to rub a bit). Or you could just eyeball it.
All this you, you, you....my preachy impulses have had far too much work-out.
anyway, I hope this is useful to someone
yours in service,
rowan
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Regarding scissors--I was planning to use the rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter) and acrylic rulers that I use for quilting. Aside from the caution inherent in using a very sharp blade, the rotary cutter may be easier for beginners? It just slides up against a thick plastic ruler (ruler held down by other hand) and guarantees a smooth straight edge. Just a thought--please veto if not a good idea here. Ann
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Hi,
Here is the latest message from Rev. Taigu, who's job is to keep our Rakusu properly Kosher! Sometimes, it will be a question of "tradition" vs. "most efficient method" vs. finding some acceptable "middle way" between the two. I had sent him Rowan's detailed post, above.
I have the feeling that we will not use the idea of putting "dots" to keep the stitches uniform: It is not a matter of beauty, but more the mindful process of sewing. So, some practical shortcuts and aids are not a help in that regard. Also, a particular pattern of stitching must be used I think. Taigu will fill us in on that, I am sure.
Quote:
Dear Jundo
This post is great, very precious to everybody indeed. Just one point of disagreement though: we don t use a double thread to sew!
The thread should be close to the colour of the fabric but it can also be white. The main point is to bear in mind that the stitches are not a decoration. As far as the stitching method is concerned I have to show it, but yes, a bit of practice beforehand is useful in order to get the rhythm and kind of idea of how it goes.
[JUNDO]
Broken colour: no light primary colour is allowed. It has to have a kind of muddy aspect to it, darkish. Strictly speaking, [if we were following the custom of monks in a monastery] light colours are for teachers only. The kesa of a beginner [unsui, priest trainee] is black.But we follow Nyoho e tradition, so the following are possible: dark grey, brown, green, blue, purple and black [all darkish]. No red, no yellow please.
Hemp, linen, silk are very beautiful but very tricky to sew. People should listen to the great tips of Rowan.
[JUNDO]
The back of the rakusu is a big issue...I still kind of think that the rakusu should be handled by the teacher and waved in incense smoke [JUNDO]. But you may choose to buy an artificial silk like fabric which has a great thing about it: you may do it separately ... ( it is tricky to sew it after if it is silk because of its very flexible nature, you get the calligraphy distorted)...By the way, do you want to write in kanji or just in good old English?
Jundo: I do a mixture of Kanji and English. I am planning to use a traditional brush and Sumi ink, but I will look into modern alternatives.
Gassho, Jundo
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by chessie
Regarding scissors--I was planning to use the rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter) and acrylic rulers that I use for quilting. Aside from the caution inherent in using a very sharp blade, the rotary cutter may be easier for beginners? It just slides up against a thick plastic ruler (ruler held down by other hand) and guarantees a smooth straight edge. Just a thought--please veto if not a good idea here. Ann
I haven't enjoyed using one, but maybe other people would like it? maybe I should give it another try sometime (but I have my nice Mundial shears and little Wasa embroidery scissors....)
with palms together,
rowan
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Greetings Rev Taigu via Jundo!
Is is true that most "artificial silk" is woven to resemble silk charmeuse which is a nice slinky weave. Um, Jundo, is there some reason you want a silk or fake silk instead of cotton? just curious.......
rowan
And
[JUNDO][/i]
The back of the rakusu is a big issue...I still kind of think that the rakusu should be handled by the teacher and waved in incense smoke [JUNDO]. But you may choose to buy an artificial silk like fabric which has a great thing about it: you may do it separately ... ( it is tricky to sew it after if it is silk because of its very flexible nature, you get the calligraphy distorted)...By the way, do you want to write in kanji or just in good old English?[/quote]
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Wow, this is all totally fascinating. I'm sure it will all make more sense to me when I actually get my hands on the practice, but the picture Jundo posted of one from Joan Halifax is gorgeous.
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Great post, Rowan! I'd like to add something about scissors- If you do not wish to purchase scissors, you can take a dulled paper cutting pair and slice through a 1/2" chunk of folded aluminum foil several times. I wouldn't try this with expensive scissors so you don't ruin them, but it usually makes the blades sharp again.
Gassho,
Jen
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Wow! This is so cool to know!!!!!!!!!!!
rowan
who is doing a happy dance and will try it out tonight!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen
Great post, Rowan! I'd like to add something about scissors- If you do not wish to purchase scissors, you can take a dulled paper cutting pair and slice through a 1/2" chunk of folded aluminum foil several times. I wouldn't try this with expensive scissors so you don't ruin them, but it usually makes the blades sharp again.
Gassho,
Jen
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by ros
Greetings Rev Taigu via Jundo!
Is is true that most "artificial silk" is woven to resemble silk charmeuse which is a nice slinky weave. Um, Jundo, is there some reason you want a silk or fake silk instead of cotton? just curious.......
rowan
Hi,
Jundo to Rowan via Jundo:
I think the reason is TRADITION!!! About 2000 years of TRADITION!!!
Quote:
During the years 200 - 589 C.E., Buddhism began to penetrate Chinese society. Buddhist teachings were gaining popularly throughout the empire, but Taoism still held strong and continued to flourish. Buddhism spread rapidly due to the "Silk Road," where traders from areas of India, Rome and the Mediterranean exchanged goods. This period also witnessed the flourishing of Chinese painting. Chinese painting was usually done on silk or paper, and was executed with a round tapered brush [in Japanese] and mineral based ink [called Sumi] ...
... The materials in some sense dictate the style. The ink, the rice paper, and silk are all pretty unforgiving. The ink is permanent and cannot be lifted off the paper [or silk] or moved around.
The whole art form is instantaneous, in the moment, immediate. If you would like to see a very cool film of my teacher, Nishijima Roshi, doing a bit of calligraphy, have a peak here (It appears that he is writing a Lineage Chart for someone's Jukai ... I hope the folks at Treeleaf will not expect anything half as nice from Jundo) ...
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=n ... lligraphy#
Taigu to Rowan via Jundo
Quote:
White silk is generally used on the back of rakusu. The reason I suggested artificial silk is to facilitate the process of doing calligraphy on silk alone and then sewing it to the back of the rakusu, which is a process I did follow when I gave Jukai years ago.
If you use true silk, the rectangular piece you try to sew is moving in every single direction and it distorts the kanji and the seals. If you choose to have the rakusu mailed to you and feel comfotable to write directly on the back of them, then using plain white silk is better.
One more word about white silk, some silks are processed so one cannot write on them...So when you buy it, you have to check it...This is another reason why I would go for the first option, that is to say buy your silk and do it before sewing it on the back of the rakusu. You don't want to get a rakusu with the wrong sort of silk on the back and have to undo it and replace the material...
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
JUNDO'S NOTE TO EVERYONE WHO CANNOT MAKE HEAD OR TAIL OF ALL THIS SEWING TALK GOING BACK AND FORTH ...
... FEAR NOT!
WE WILL GET ALL THIS SORTED OUT, AND OUR MATERIALS AND INSTRUCTIONS TOO, BY THE TIME ANYONE NEEDS TO SET TO WORK!
GASSHO, JUNDO
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
Wow! this is very interesting - i have learned where i went wrong with my past project!! Many thanks for all the tips and suggestions :D
Gassho
Dirk
Re: Rowan's Hand-Sewing Tips
I'm more than happy to mail my rakusu to you in Japan and pay for registered mail there & back again, although I don't think Japan or Canada Post have much problem with things being lost or stolen.
Skye